Design Objects in Art History
Written By: Amayah Meas
Design objects and garments were created in art historical periods alongside paintings and sculptures. Fashion, architecture, and interior design are markets that are continuing to develop to this day, and it is interesting to look back and analyze their origins and development over time. Evolving in function, technique, style, or anything in between, these items in history are important artifacts that remain valuable. Design objects are very telling of the wealth, status, and lifestyle of their owner, much like how paintings communicate a similar message as well.
Marie Antoinette, Queen of France from 1773 to 1793, remains a controversial character to this day. Despite her dismissive political influence and oblivion of the poor conditions of which the French citizens lived during her time, Marie Antoinette is known for her lavish spending and extravagant lifestyle (Khan Academy). She possessed numerous decadent objects of various media which show off her prominence in French design and fashion. The Mechanical Table was designed for her by cabinet maker Jean Henri Riesener. This exquisite table had multiple functions ranging from a velvet lined writing surface, bookstand, mirror, and storage compartment (Metmuseum.org). The exterior of its drawer and sides are gilded with intricate gold detail resembling arabesque design, having stems and accents layering on top of one another. The practical function of this table communicates how wealthy Marie Antoinette was, since most French citizens did not even have such need for it without owning enough books, writing tools, or cosmetics to use in their leisure.
Mechanical Table
Jean Henri Riesener
1781
Woodwork
French Neoclassicism
Along with functional interior design objects, Marie Antoinette was also quite influential in the realm of fashion. Designer Rose Bertin is credited to be her main dress designer, creating fashions that revolutionized French style at the time. Antoinette’s most well-known style of garment was the chemise dress, made to resemble her delicate undergarments. Her popular white muslin gowns rebelled against traditional French fashion because they abandoned the corset, having a straight and relaxed silhouette that slightly tied in at the waist. This alteration of socially accepted fashion for women would carry on as garment production progressed. Although her dresses are not intact anymore, portraits painted in the late Rococo period depict her intricate dress, such as La Reine en Gaulle painted by Élisabeth-Louise Vigée Le Brun. The light pastel colors and airy brushwork are a great reflection of her delicate style. The ruffled collar resembles a ruff, another type of detachable pleated collar worn by elite individuals. Marie Antoinette’s focus on fashion rather than the real priorities of her people effectively communicated her noble status, having no other concerns which increased the citizens’ opposition to her as Queen. Ermine fur is a notable material in European society at the origins of Haute Couture. The white winter ermine held valuable fur associated with the fashions of royal courts of the United Kingdom, specifically King George V and Queen Mary who are photographed with their glamourous fur coats and rugs. Portraits of royal people with their ermine fur designs are held in many museums, connecting Europe’s influence in fashion and its presentation of wealth.
La Reine en Gaulle (Marie Antoinette)
Élisabeth-Louise Vigée Le Brun
1783
White muslin gown
French Rococo
The birth of modern science and fascination with the natural world heightened during the Baroque period. Artists and patrons were enchanted by exotic materials used to make design objects. In East Asia, lacquered porcelain and designs were very fashionable and soon became imitated by European architects. Wolfgang Howzer created the Porcelain Cup, made to hold writing brushes. Displaying blue Chinese motifs and designs (known as Chinoiserie), it was later transformed into a two handled cup with cover with extravagant gilded details added. This intricate and expensive design on such small object conveys the wealth of those who owned these items while also communicating Asian influences on European art and culture, still prominent today.
Porcelain Cup
Wolfgang Howzer
c. 1660
Porcelain
Dutch Baroque
European design and architecture served many functions and symbolized the true wealth of its owners. While some also pull inspiration from Asian cultures, these design objects would play an influential role in the evolution of individual fashion markets while simultaneously providing deep insight into the lifestyle of Europe’s most prominent individuals.
References
Encyclopædia Britannica, inc. Marie-Antoinette. Encyclopædia Britannica. Retrieved December 9, 2021, from https://www.britannica.com/biography/Marie-Antoinette-queen-of-France.
Metmuseum.org. Retrieved December 9, 2021, from https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/200595.
Robe en chemise. Fashion History Timeline. (2019, August 5). Retrieved December 9, 2021, from https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/robe-en-chemise/.
Rococo. History of Costume. Retrieved December 9, 2021, from https://historyofeuropeanfashion.wordpress.com/tag/rococo/.
Rose Bertin. Palace of Versailles. (2021, July 1). Retrieved December 9, 2021, from https://en.chateauversailles.fr/discover/history/great-characters/rose-bertin.
The royal touch: Ermine. American Fur Council. (2021, October 12). Retrieved December 9, 2021, from https://www.fur.org/the-royal-touch-ermine/.
