Can Clothing Consumption Ever Be Ethical?

There is no doubt that social media is flooded with discourse about fashion. The topic is multifaceted, with many sides claiming that there is no such thing as ethical consumption under capitalism. This moral dilemma sounds like, "I can't afford sustainable clothing, I can't buy fast fashion because it is morally wrong, and I can't thrift clothes because I am taking away from those who need it, so what do I do?" Although there are solutions, the war online assures that nobody wins.

Social Media and Overconsumption

With social media trends like clothing hauls and outfit recommendations, there is a pressure to own a lot of fashion forward clothes. A stigma still exists around outfit repeating even though this is something that everyone participates in offline, and there is an added layer of pressure to post consistently, sometimes everyday in order to maximize the algorithm and become a fashion influencer. These accumulated pressures ultimately contribute to overconsumption.

The demand for cheap and trendy clothes has concerning outcomes. 1) Fast fashion has taken over the masses. 2) Trend cycles are getting shorter. 3) Clothing prices are increasing, and discourse on fashion has divided a community that primarily focuses on creativity and expression into one of competition and condemnation.

The Problem with Fast Fashion

It is common knowledge that although fast fashion is cute and affordable, it is not doing any good for the environment. Fast fashion empires like Shein are known to take an idea from the drawing board to production, to their website in as little as three days, a process traditionally taking months or even years. The garments are usually made with synthetic fibers that take hundreds of years to never fully decompose. They are not constructed to last and will inevitably be added to the never-ending piles of clothes in landfills.

TikTok users showing their massive Shein hauls worth hundreds and thousands of dollars.

On another note, the cheap prices that these garments are selling for do not come close to covering all their production costs. They require cheap materials and cheap labor, resulting in unfair wages and poor factory conditions. Fast fashion brands are also notorious for stealing designs from smaller brands and artists so that consumers can have innovative designs without the high price tag.

While this may be the only accessible way for those with lower income to buy new clothes, the problem lies with consumers who can afford to buy sustainably (like those who buy $1000+ Shein hauls) but still choose to willingly buying from fast fashion brands, all while having little to no regard for the unethical practices behind them. Generally, those who participate in weekly fast fashion trends also deem those who aren't fashion forward to be inferior, creating a toxic environment around this touchy subject online.

Shortened Fashion Cycles: Micro Trends

The digital age is the main reason for the ultra-quick micro trend phenomenon. These days, anyone has the ability to look up a product, runway show, or trend at their fingertips. We no longer have to wait for articles, movies, and magazines to tell us what trends to wear next.

Once we obtain the newest trends, we run straight to our socials to post a photo because who wouldn't? Our online presence is our very own highlight reel. Anyone can become an influencer when they are ahead of the game. Of course, all trends end in excess and this over-saturation of trendy items results in obsolescence.

Kendall Jenner spotted in House of Sunny dress leads to numerous dupes, resulting in a fad that was quickly discarded in 2021.

Furthermore, brands are perpetuating this influx of micro trends with their marketing strategies, sending garments to a range of influencers all at once. It becomes the new "basic" (something not inherently wrong but still shamed due to the collective desire to be 'different'), and being caught wearing last month's dress is looked down upon. It will be discarded by the masses in a matter of weeks, resulting in consumers running back to the brands to purchase the next big trend.

Why Are Thrift Stores So Expensive Now?

Buying secondhand has increasingly been practiced and celebrated over the past few years among the masses. Consumers are keeping clothes in rotation and away from the landfills, extending a product's life cycle. This is a good thing, although certain arguments against this claim that those who can afford to buy new sustainable clothes but choose to thrift are raising the prices, hurting those who actually rely on charity shops for clothes.

Skirts at this Goodwill in Manhattan, NY can list for up to $20.

While an increased demand results in a higher price, thrift stores are exploiting this concept for their own profit (the basis of demand so this is not surprising). Because of this, we begin to question the actual cause behind these stores in the first place: is it to help those who need it or to make a profit? Companies like Goodwill are a prime example of this. Their free supply of clothing comes from generous donations, something they are not short of. In fact, the world is quite literally overflowing with garments waiting to be worn. While Goodwill has an endless supply of secondhand clothing, raising the prices is simply for their own gain. We then should question: where is this profit even going? How much of it is helping the employees? If they truly want to supply affordable clothing, why is it so expensive to the point where buying new may even be cheaper? Not to mention, the company just proposed a new app which lists rare finds and luxury brand items for a higher price than off the rack, taking away the joy of finding a 'hidden gem' while thrifting and selling the better items to those who can pay more online.

The Guide to Ethically Consuming

The solution has many layers. Those who can afford to buy from sustainable and ethical brands should do so over fast fashion (while being conscious that they are still contributing to an economy that over-produces and over-consumes). Those who rely on fast fashion as their only means of acquiring trendy clothes should not be shamed (they are not the ones keeping this industry afloat). Buying secondhand should not be gatekept and is something for everyone (if it is accessible). Consumers can also"upcycle," a unique, sustainable, and affordable way to turn used garments into trendy ones and develop sewing skills. Finally, the most sustainable option of them all is to just buy LESS.

Although it suffers under an inescapable capitalist regime, fashion is a celebration of sartorial expression that brings people together. Consuming responsibly should be encouraged, taught, and practiced, and we as consumers and fashion connoisseurs should actively be looking for ways to contribute to a circular economy. Rather than shaming others for how they participate in trends (with a few exceptions in which we should educate), our main focus should be to consume less and call for reform within the corrupt brands that exploit us.

Can Clothing Consumption Ever Be Ethical?

Social Media and Overconsumption

The Problem with Fast Fashion

Shortened Fashion Cycles: Micro Trends

Why Are Thrift Stores So Expensive Now?

The Guide to Ethically Consuming

Amayah Meas

amayah_meas@fitnyc.edu

Can Clothing Consumption Ever Be Ethical?

Social Media and Overconsumption

The Problem with Fast Fashion

Shortened Fashion Cycles: Micro Trends

Why Are Thrift Stores So Expensive Now?

The Guide to Ethically Consuming

Nicole McLaughlin & Unconventional Fashion

Storytelling in Social Media

Amayah Meas

amayah_meas@fitnyc.edu